February 16, 2010

Discus fish disease risks

Native from the Amazon River, yet successfully bred all over the world in aquariums, discus fish are not too fragile or sensitive creatures. However, all breeders should be aware of the risks of discus fish disease, as they are often exposed to various health problems because of improper care conditions. Saying that breeders are most often the ones responsible for the discus fish diseases doesn’t mean we’re pointing the finger, this is the truth. Improper care, poor or inadequate living conditions, co-inhabitance with other breeds are usually responsible for the various discus fish diseases.

The most common discus fish diseases are the ones common to fresh water fish in general. For instance the ammonia poisoning is a discus fish disease that appears because of improper nitrogen cycle in your aquarium. Don’t add tropical fish in the water until the ammonia has been eliminated in the water, and maybe the filters don’t function properly. In order to avoid this discus fish disease, change the water regularly and avoid over-crowding the tank. The symptoms of this discus fish disease include red and swollen gills and the fish staying at the water surface gasping for air.

Another discus fish disease that results from poor water quality is the Ich or the white spot characterized by the appearance of white spots on the fish body and fins. The best way to fight this discus fish disease is by increasing the water temperature and administrating medication available in any pet store. Before adding the medication for this type of discus fish disease, take the carbon filter out as this may absorb all the useful substances. In case you want to bring other fish to the tank, make sure you use a quarantine aquarium in order to prevent any discus fish disease.

If the water temperature is not appropriate you expose your pets to another discus fish disease such as the oxygen starvation. A higher water temperature also requires an increased level of oxygen in the water. Therefore, you can easily avoid this discus fish disease by taking care of the aeration level, speeding up the flow rate of the filters. You may want to turn off the tank light for a while, as this also causes temperature to rise and exposes the fish to the risk of the oxygen starvation discus fish disease. All in all, keep in mind that the proper temperature for the discus fish is 31 degrees Celsius at the maximum.

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February 16, 2010

Aquarium Care Guide- New Tanks

When starting a new aquarium it is important to understand the nitrogen cycle. Many new aquarium owners jump into the hobby of fish keeping too quickly. Before purchasing fish, the aquarium must be cycled. This could take anywhere from twenty four hours to four weeks. In an established aquarium there are certain bacteria that help the breakdown of ammonia to nitrates, but they are not present in a new tank because they are generated from existing fish. If there are no existing fish, then there are no good bacteria.

The basic principle of the nitrogen cycle is this. Fish eat food and generate waste. That waste along with excess food and plant debris become ammonia in the aquarium. Ammonia is toxic to fish and needs to be broken down. That’s why the nitrifying bacteria is important. This bacteria, turns the ammonia into nitrites which are more tolerable to fish than ammonia. Next, different nitrifying bacteria will turn the nitrites into nitrates, which are even less toxic to the fish and other aquarium life. The nitrates are collected and minimized by filters; however they will eventually accumulate in the tank. Regular water changes are required to remove the nitrates from the water.

It is important to set up and run an aquarium before any fish are introduced into the environment. Wash the tank and any substrate and decorations thoroughly with water. Don’t use any soap. Fill the tank with de-chlorinated water and attach filters and lighting. Allow the tank to cycle until the water is no longer cloudy and sufficient P.H and water temperatures have been established.

Now it is time to purchase the fish! Buy hardy fish such as danios, barb, gouramis, and live bearers. They should be able to withstand the high nitrite levels and ammonia in the new aquarium. Only introduce about four fish at a time. Float the fish in the bag in the aquarium for about fifteen minutes before adding them to the tank. This will help the fish become acclimated to the water temperature in their new home. When adding the fish, be careful not to allow the water from the bag into the aquarium. It may be contaminated, or will at the very least, throw off the temperature and P.H. Allow the fish about two hours to become acclimated before feeding.

Only feed an amount that can be consumed in the first two to five minutes. Overfeeding is a common problem in an aquarium. It is important not to overfeed, because excess food will become debris adding to the ammonia levels. This is especially important in new aquariums that lack nitrifying bacteria. Test the water P.H. every day within the first month. Watch the tank for cloudiness; if the aquarium becomes cloudy, it may be necessary to add a clarifier. Monitor the fish for signs of stress or illness. A healthy fish will be swimming regularly. Lethargic fish will usually hover near the surface of the aquarium. After about a week change approximately ten percent of the water and begin regular maintenance.

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February 16, 2010

Aeration And Filtration In Your Fish Tank

Just like any other form of life, fish need oxygen. Not having lungs, they breathe through their gills, “breathing” in the dissolved oxygen that is present within the water. In a small body of water, like a home aquarium, the oxygen in that water can be depleted fairly quickly-leaving your fish gasping for air and unable to breathe. It seems odd for a fish, but if this happens, they will have suffocated under water.

The home aquarist keeps his fish alive by circulating the water. This can be done with just a simple air pump or power head, but most systems add a filtration component to help clean the water at the same time. We’ll take you through the various options and you can decide which method will work the best for you.

The easiest option is just a small air pump and airstone. For just a couple of dollars, you can get everything you need for a small tank. Bubble “wands” or “curtains” can even be placed at the back of your tank for a more decorative effect. This setup supplies your fish with the oxygen that they need, but does nothing to remove contaminants from your tank.

The next option is the “powerhead”. A powerhead is basically a submersible motor that is generally mounted on the side or the back of the aquarium. It jets the water into the tank, circulating the water and adding a bit of oxygen to it by means of an attached air hose. Like the air pump, this system does no filtration, but it does create a current and prevents some of the sediments from settling at the bottom of your tank. Some fish thrive in a current; some prefer more placid water, so make sure that your particular type of fish enjoys a current before you install this system.

The most common option is the simple “hang on the back” filter. This type of filter contains a small electrical motor that siphons water out of your tank and into the filter body, where it runs through a cloth or sponge filter pad, and then trickles back into the tank like a waterfall.

On the plus side, this type of set up cleans your tank while it adds oxygen to your system, as well as establishing a place for a bacterial filter to reside. You can also add charcoal to the filter pouches to help filter out odor. On the down side, some people find the trickling water to be noisier than they want to deal with. Plus, the filter pads need to be replaced on occasion, so there are maintenance costs to bear.

The last option is the canister filter. This set up is fairly similar to the (HOB) filter, though more expensive. The motor and large canister sits outside of your tank although it works similarly to the (HOB). It draws water out of your tank, runs it through the filters in the canister and then drives it back into the tank. Since the returning water does not fall into the tank, generally, the canister contains an airline set up similar to the one in a powerhead to put oxygen bubbles into your system.

These filters are the most expensive option. On the bright side, they are very quiet, they are suitable for larger tanks and they don’t need to be cleaned as frequently as the regular (HOB) style. On the down side, they are much harder to clean when it is time to clean them; they fill up with the detritus from your tank and the only real way to get rid of it is to carry the canister to a drain and pour it out.

All of these systems will do the job, so you’ll have to figure out which of these options works best for you. Some aquarists even employ two or three options in the same tank so they have a back up if one of them fails. Start with the cheapest option, and work your way up. Your fish will thank you!

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February 15, 2010

How To Set Up An Aquarium

If you are interested in keeping fish a medium sized freshwater aquarium is probably the best bet for a beginner. The first decision you will have to make is what size aquarium will suit your needs. All sizes are available from a mini two gallon tank that sits on a desktop to monsters in excess of 100 gallons. Generally, a ten or twenty gallon tank is a good starter size while you learn the basics of fish care and aquarium management. Also, a tank this size is not a huge investment if you decide in the future that the hobby isn’t right for you.

Filtration Systems Are Important

When setting up an aquarium you will need to instal a filtration system, arguably the most important part of the aquatic environment. This important item in the fish tank that will filter out impurities and excess debris in the water and help keep the environment balanced and the water clear and healthy. Of course you will be provided with multiple choices when you are choosing a filter. There are many varieties available, and it’s always a good idea to ask for help at the pet store or do some research so that you select the right size filtration unit that is designed for your tank.

Will You Need A Fish Tank Heater?

A heater is generally not a necessity in a freshwater fish tank. Whilst tropical fish will require warmer water that may necessitate a fish tank heater, many freshwater fish will happily live in a wide range of temperatures and the temperature in most houses will be suitable for many fish. Just check with your fish supplier or pet store when you are buying your fish.

Choosing Your Fish

Choosing which fish you want to stock in your tank can be great fun. There are so many fish varieties available for a freshwater aquarium that sometimes it can be hard to decide. Beside each fish display at the pet store you will usually find notes on the habits and requirement of the species. Pay attention to the habits of the fish so that you avoid introducing aggressive or predatory fish into your aquarium. Many varieties of fish will happily co-exist with each other.

These are just a few tips on how to set up an aquarium. Take your time deciding on the size and style of tank that you want and the types of fish you’d like to add to your tank. Keeping fish is often considered to be an expensive hobby but if you’re prepared to start out with a small aquarium you will be able to stay within a budget and still experience the enjoyment provided by a peaceful tank of freshwater fish.

Article Source : How To Set Up An Aquarium : ArticleBase

Alison Benjamin

Yes! We have a lot more information on how to set up an aquarium… just visit our goldfish website

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February 14, 2010

Keeping Discus Fish

Whoever wants to breed exotic fish needs special information on discus care, since discus fish are generally considered very sensitive creatures. A large part of discus care should focus on creating the most proper living environment in a well proportionate water tank. Discus fish love deep water, so make sure the aquarium you are going to use is proper for the discus group you want to colonize. In general terms discus care presents no out of common issues; all the breeder needs is to preserve the correct water parameters necessary for healthy living conditions. Otherwise, things should go smoothly.

For instance an important element in discus care is the weekly water change; however, since the discus don’t like changes, only 25% of the tank volume should be freshened. Moreover, for special discus care try to use a filter that eliminates the heavy metals and the chlorine without altering the water pH. Keep in mind that a larger water volume is easier to preserve stable as compared to a small tank for instance; therefore, discus care should include this aspect too. In case you feed the discus fish on beef-heart, make sure that you clean all the leftovers as these will ruin the water.

In case you’re having a separate tank with fry, special discus care is required here. The reasons are simple, you feed them more and the water quality lowers, therefore in the case of baby discus you need to change at least 30% of the water in the tank three times a week. Through discus care, uneaten food and waste are eliminated, not to mention that the more simple you keep the aquarium the higher the water quality. If you use lots of plants and decorations, there will be more discus care issues since they collect lots of dirt underneath. Consequently, avoid using them in baby discus or breeding tanks.

For special tips on discus care, have a look at a site such as www.discus-fish-secrets.com. Special attention should be paid to situations that involved increased discus care measures. I’m talking about the breeding period or in case there is some kind of disease that is affecting your fish. Should you notice any unusual changes, find some extra support and solutions besides the regular discus care. The vet or some professional breeder may assist you in some crisis situation involving discus health care, particularly since things may have gone out of control.

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